My top 8 favourite patterns

I'm I wanted to write a post sharing my favourite pattern picks- my top 8 patterns I’ve made over & over, that are my ‘go-to’s I rely on.  Here we go…in no particular order!!

  

1. Sew over it Tulip skirt:   Lets start here as this is the on  I’m working on right now, my 3^rd and surely not my last.  I love this skirt- its got a flattering shape, I can sew it in under a metre of fabric,  Its quick- like 2-3 hours quick, It has pockets, I can just sew up the size 12 and bang, perfect, no alterations in site.   In my mind, this is the perfect pattern for a stunner of a fabric- one with some body & structure – where the skirt will be the star of the show and all you need to do is grab a plain top and run.   I specifically like the fact its darts at the back (I find the 4 darts very flattering) but pleats at the front, meaning a nice shape and body at the front, but not overly heavy on the derriere.    I bought this one as a PDF- as a rule I hate PDFs but since its only a skirt, there were not too many pieces so it was ok to put together relative to some of the others I’ve tried.

2.      2. Tilly & the buttons Agnes top: My first jersey sew, my first I tried on my over locker and have reused time & time again since.  You can make endless alterations and achieve anything from just a plain top for everyday, to something with standout fabric & fancy sleeves with a bit more wow.  For jersey, love, love this one.  Instructions are perfect, especially if you are starting out with jersey. 

3.      3. Simplicity ultimate fit princess seam dress- 1586: I love this one because it suits my shape & I do like a fitted dress- this one, with all the princess pieces allows you to get a perfect fit.  I love the flexibility of it too.  I ve put 3 examples below- don’t they all look different?  It can flex from a summer staple, to something looking quite smart, to something comfortable and cosy for winter.  With these ultimate fit patterns you get pieces for different cup sizes and also for how curvy you are (on top of the usual dress size) so you can really tailor your make to your body shape with the most appropriate pieces.  I find it goes together perfectly – this isn’t one I just sew & go- it needs fitting each time and it does vary each time depending on the stretch of the fabric and look you want.  The cotton one for example is obviously a lot less fitted than the one made of stretch twill.   In terms of hacks, the only things I ve done is really switch the zip to the centre back to use a visible metal zipper and interchange different sleeves

4.      4. Aime come Maggellan: I loved this pattern when I first saw it, it had my name allover it.  I just find it with enough detail to be interesting, but plain enough to be practical and wear either over or tucked in.  Another one that can look different whether made lightweight & sleeveless for summer, or with sleeves for winter.  I also like the fact it uses little fabric and can be a great stash buster as you can use different fabrics for the different elements if you like.  Instructions are in French, with a brief English translation, but putting it together is common sense and there are little illustrations- so I didn’t have an issue.

5.      5. Simplicity shift dress Simplicity 6145:  This is my most used pattern.  I’m sure loads of these patterns exist, this is just one I found early on that worked and I’ve stuck with it.    Its just a good old shift dress with darts- with some nice sleeve and collar options.  I just find the basic shape perfect, I ve used it as is, added additional back or front darts, and I’ve used it like a block to adapt from/shorten to a top etc.  I would highly recommend if you are looking for that perfect basic shift- or like the idea of having a block but don’t know where to start- you could start with this and alter it a bit to meet your needs.

6.      6. Vogue cowl neck blouse v8816.  One of the patterns I went for early on and these tops I wear all the time.  Literally all the time.  They work with jeans casually, they work with a suit looking more formal.  Super simple to put together – no zips, it just goes straight over your head.  As you probably know if you’ve read my blog before, I m addicted to Liberty tana lawn and this pattern just suits it so perfectly.  Surprisingly, I’ve never made one with sleeves. I must rectify that.  I ve also never tried in jersey, something that is sure to work well.   Only watch out on this pattern is because of the cowl neck, I have several times intended to make it but under-estimated my fabric requirement (so ended up making something else).

7.     7.  Sew over it Ultimate trousers.  This is the one & only trouser pattern I ve ever tried – but I find it a super one, especially if you lack confidence in that department- the style is quite straightforward, allowing you to focus on the all-important fit.  Love the fact it has short option too with the cute turnups.  I wore them all summer long and they are still going strong.  I wrote a full review of this pattern & the class I took in an earlier post here…

8.      8. My own blocks!!!   Last but certainly not least, I can’t tell you how happy I am to have my own block.  I use it all the time and can sew up a simple top or skirt in no time, no need for fitting or measurement as I know it just works.  I used Chinelo Bally’s Freehand Fashion book to work out my blocks, I made them up, tweeking them as I go and then when happy, cut them out in card & hand them on my wall.    If I just want something pretty basic, or want to experiment with my own design, I usually start from here.

So there we have it.  I ‘m looking forward to adding to this list and there are some of the ‘classics’ that I m yet to try… the Grainline Archer & Linden and the byHandLondon Anna dress I m pretty sure will go straight on the list when I try them….

So what patterns have I missed that you would recommend??  I m always looking to add to this list

Messy Essy Makes x

Clearance dress re-imagined

I was in the supermarket and spotted this dress in the clearance for only £12- It was plus size with a gathered skirt so had huge amounts of Broiderie Anglaise fabric in it, lined, so I couldn't resist buying it to cut up & re-make to fit!  I had almost bought some Broiderie earlier in the day so it was a bit like fate!

 So it was the wrong size in every way so I cut out all the different elements - I carefully removed the sleeves by cutting as close to the seam as I could (with a view to re-using them), I cut the  skirt off from the waistband, then I cut down the side seams of the bodice, leaving only the shoulder seam intact.  I kept the lining & top fabric together at all times as I wanted to keep it lined

First job was to fit the bodice, so I put it on my dress form inside out.  Firstly I pinned in some darts at front and back to get the fit right.  There was the nice detailing in the pattern down the front & back so I got the darts as close as I could manage to those, without going over them so I kept that looking good.  Once the darts were pinned, I then realised the shoulders were a bit low (armholes were too low) so I took up the shoulder seam a bit to get it all into the right position.  Final job fitting the bodice was to then fit the side seams.  The dress form makes this super easy...

Once I was happy with the fit on the bodice, I moved to the skirt.  Just look how much fabric I had to play with!!

I cut the skirt down the side seams given it needed a lot of reshaping & I decided I would put pleats, directly aligned with the bodice detailing.  I also matched up the zig zag of the pattern top & skirt.  I marked the mid point on the fabric, then measured out to the pleats on either side.  I made the pleats 12cm each, so folded over at 6 cm and sewed down for 15cm.  I then pressed it open & sewed it open.

I then shaped darts into the back skirt piece &  using the dress form again & fitting it to the bodice sewed the side seams back together.     Whilst working on it, I sewed the lining to the top fabric down all the seams so it didn't move: 

Next job was simply attaching the bodice & skirt.

Next job the sleeves.  I basically just cut the arm hole so it was in the right place on the bodice & then re-attached the sleeves  on all sides but at the top - as you can see there was a lot of extra fabric there:

I then just put in a pleat to take in the extra fabric, aligned with the shoulder seam:

I wanted to add some detailing to jazz it up a bit and I had the wonderful thick ribbon I bought recently - so that was destined for the waistband!  Here I first just pinned it on to check that it was sitting right, then I stitched it carefully in cream down the cream stripes top & bottom of the ribbon.

And it was nearly finished!!  I had originally planned not to touch the hem (lazy :), but I realised it was just too long so I did cut it and re-hemmed  it to the right length.  And a zip had to go in-, down the side seam (site of the original zip but a lot further in) big job was lining the ribbon up so the stripes sat well - it would look terrible if that was off (well it was off the first time I tacked it and it did look awful, but I got it right with a bit of alteration)

So then it was finished- except I felt the sleeve was a bit boring, so I went for a bit of added detail and made a placket to add to it using a small button:

And then it really was finished!! I thought it may have been a quick project given I was starting from a finished dress, but I re did everything apart from the neckline & avoiding to make a separate lining- but it is a very cost effective dress and I like it a lot !!!