Maternity Sewing Plans

Phew its been a long time since I did either sewing or blogging...  the reason being, not only have I been crazy busy with work and travelling a lot, I am also pregnant!  And for the first 3 months I was terribly sick... in those months I did nothing but sleeping, working and being sick.  Anyway as I headed into my 4th month, the sickness thankfully ceased and I got back to feeling like me again.

In these past weeks therefore, I m back sewing, creating my perfect baby wardrobe. I say baby wardrobe as learning from my first pregnancy, I don't really believe in 'maternity wear'.  You can wear your regular clothes for at least the first 4 months, there are then 6weeks when you fit in neither normal nor maternity wear particularly well - then maybe 4 months tops when you need full on maternity clothes.  Thats not long, to be buying or creating a whole set of new clothes.  As with my first baby, I plan to breastfeed and that period actually lasts a whole lot longer than the time you need maternity wear and also has very specific clothing requirements.  And finally- no one tells you beforehand that it will be a bloody long time before your usual clothes fit again!!  And I really didn't enjoy 'maternity wear'  post baby with all that extra fabric around the waist, making you feel even bigger than you already are!  

I set myself one golden rule to creating a wardrobe for my second baby...

 Anything I create must be wearable both in pregnancy, during breastfeeding and ideally after that (maybe with a few alterations).

I m not a fan of the maternity look, I found last time the things I wore most were regular  jersey dresses and tops (mainly from Boden or Joules)  with a high waist under the bust or wrap dresses/tops.   There are a few things I think you can't live without - appropriate underwear, maternity tights, a few vests and maternity jeans.  But for dresses and tops, I think 'regular wear' carefully chosen can suit quite fine, with much more longevity.   Here are a few of the (RTW non maternity) dresses I wore lots last time:

And here are the me-made things I've worn non stop for the first 4 months that well accommodate a small bump- basically stretchy dresses, shirts & shirt dresses, tunic style tops and sweatshirts.

On to the sewing plans! Here is what I have on my list, some of which I've started on already...

TOPS:

From top left, clockwise: Tilly & the buttons Rosa, Grainline Archer, Tessuti Alice Top, Vogue V8816, Sewoverit Lilly, Burda 6838.

First up, for early pregnancy (months 3-5) and for breastfeeding and later... shirts.  I 've just finished one new Archer in a gorgeous Liberty and have plans for one more as well as a Tilly & the Buttons Rosa dress in Liberty Needlecord to make after the birth.  I've worn my current one non-stop in the past weeks, but now its reached its limit.  I know I'll wear it all the time for breastfeeding since its got  easy open popper fastening and is super comfy.  I also know V8816 works well as I wore that constantly in my last pregnancy!

Here is the Archer that I just finished in Liberty:

Add caption

I made one concession and bought a maternity pattern - the SewOverIt Lilly top, which is specially designed for breastfeeding and actually I think I can wear afterwards too-  Think its a really nice cut and I had 2 contrasting Liberty fabrics which I used to sew it up already!  I put darts in the back and took the side seams in a little as I did find it very baggy, but I do really like the pattern and its an easy sew.

DRESSES:

From top left, clockwise:  Tilly & Buttons Joni dress, Newlook 6301,  Buda 6562,  Newlook 6001, Butterick 5454, Cotton & Chalk Lilly.  I just got the new Tilly Stretch book through the post yesterday and I was super happy to see the new Joni dress, its just perfect for maternity wear but will be absolutely fine afterwards too!

I've already cut out the Newlook 6301 and the cotton & chalk dress in Liberty Jersey I found on eBay.  I cut per the patterns but in both cases I've shortened the bodice by a good few inches so it sits above my bump.  I didn't lengthen as I always find dresses too long anyway, so I was good on the length. I have a few days off over next few weeks when I'm hoping to finish the off - The top part of both are done, just need to do a few finishing touches like the hem etc. Here is a sneak peak:

Add caption

I've been collecting up some jersey fabrics, so will be tapping into my stash of those over the next weeks....

Hope to be sewing and blogging a lot more over coming months, I ll try not to leave it so long next time!  Thanks for reading - if you have any other maternity sewing tips- leave me a comment please!!
Messyessymakes x

Sewoverit Ultimate trousers

I ve gone a bit Ultimate Trouser mad!! I did the course at SewOverIt London with Julie as I'd never made trousers before and I had no clue how to fit them. I was in total fear they would split in wear & leave me indecent!  So I figured if I did a course, I d end up with a pair that fit that I'd have the confidence to wear- and it worked !!! 

The pattern itself is very simple- just a front piece, back piece & facing. 

The first pair I made in class was with a reversible denim I bought at Mood in NYC- I made it up in the light side which is a lovely pinky colour.   So all pieces cut out & the edges overlocked.  First job was to sew the centre seams together & leave the outside seams.  Julie then pinned them on and pinned the darts so they fitted just right.

Next job just to sew it all together!

After it was all sewn up with a zip added, I did feel like I needed to make a few more adjustments around the crotch & tighten the legs a bit.  Then they just needed hemming & the facing for the waist adding and there they are, finished!!!  The colour contrast works great with the turn up.  I m really happy with how they turned out & the fit!!

Add caption

So after my first success I decided to make some more!!  The weather suddenly got hot so I decided to have a go at shorts!  Really straightforward make as I'd copied all the fitting adjustments on to the pattern - I made them in less than 2 hours!!

And well I'm keeping going - adding in a few hacks to mix it up a bit.  Next up was another pair of shorts- this time denim. I wanted just a really comfortable, easy to wear (and easy to run after a toddler in) shorts that were quite long - I get very sun burned so I m keen on covering up as much as possible!!

I used fabric from Fabric Godmother- a denim that is black on one side and grey on the other.   My pattern hack on this one was to add a very slim waist band; to do contrast turn ups and to add the tabs, secured with pearl snaps using the Prym pliers.

I attached the turn-ups using my overlocker as follows:

And here is a close up of the pearl snap fasteners, which I love!!

and here they are on.  Im super happy- they are so comfy, exactly what I wanted.

And my final pair- for now at least, are trousers with a curved edge detail - in another lovely fabric from Fabric godmother.   The thing I love about this pattern is now that I ve got a version which fits, I can make them quite quickly- I have to do a bit of adjustment on each to account for the level of stretch in the fabric etc, but it is a very quick sew - I also find it great to work on 2 pairs at once as I kinda get in the groove and can whistle through the second one even quicker than the first!

This final pair are a great fabric from Fabric Godmother and I added curved hems & a thin waistband with snap fasten.

Did you try the pattern yet?  Any other trouser pattern recommendations?

Messyessymakes x

ps. If you are on Instagram, do join me @messyessymakes for more creations!

My first jacket - Francine @sewoverit

I set myself the task of making myself a few jackets this year- something I've never done before. To get started I signed up for the Sew Over It Francine jacket class, taught over 3 evenings with the lovely Julie.

First up getting all my materials ready. I was super excited (well still am!) about the amazing fabric from Mood NYC- it is the most  delicious reversible wool and proved to be a total joy to sew. Along with that I have lining (black spotty) interfacing and buttons. 

So I m packed and off to my first class with 5 other ladies. The first class involves no sewing at all!! Julie walked us through the process and we got started on choosing the right sizes. What is very cool is that Sewoverit have jackets made up i each size so you try on to find the perfect fit. For me that was a 12, but the arms were too tight so we went for a 14 on the arms. Julie then helped all of us amend the pattern pieces to be right for each of us. Then it was cutting out time. 

I thought I was good to go but then I was asked if I d measured the grain line. Why would I do that? I be always ignored the grain line, I thought they were for patterns. Anyway now I know, you need your grain line to be measured correctly so the fabric hangs right. Measure the grain line from the selvege in- keeping perfectly parallel. 

So then I did really start cutting! Lots of pieces- for the outer, lining and then the interfacing.  Didn't get it all finished in class so my homework starts here.  Next job iron on the interfacing. This is what it looks like at this stage:

Now sewing time! Julie shared a very cool way of doing darts using some extra fabric to even it out so the dart lies flat:

How fancy does that look!!

So then sewing all the easy bits together wraps up my week one homework:

So onto my second class! Good news, what I did for my homework was correct except I found stay tape I was supposed to have put in the shoulders but forgot. Tacked it in quickly by hand in class. Big job this class is the neckline and lapel. We start by attaching it. Then comes the interesting bit with how you bend it slightly to ensure you don t see the under side and tailors tack it. 

Glad I m at class for this bit as there is no way I would have worked it out from the instructions!! Then we roll the collar back, pin in place then hand tack in the ditch so it holds in place but stitches can't

be seen. I hate hand sewing but I do see the value in this!  It's so exciting seeing it come together, the contrast lapel is starting to look brilliant!

So next job the sleeves. I learn how to 'ease in' excess fabric with the use of a lot of pins. I was convinced the sleeve was much too big for the hole but Julie promised it won fit and it did of course. Tack the sleeve in and try on.  Unfortunately I m not 100% happy with the fit so we decide to take the jacket and sleeve in a bit. Julie pins it right for me whilst I wear it, then I get on to making the adjustments: 

Adjustments done & the  sleeves can go in.  Do you think I used enough pins?!

So thats my homework for wk2 done. Class for week 3 starts with sleeve head wadding and shoulder pads !  Who ever knew such a thing as sleeve head wadding exists and that I would be doing it!!!

So sleeve head wadding is some stuff (thin fluffy material) that you sew along the inside of the top sleeve so it looks nice & full (opposite where shoulder pad would go.  Its simply tacked  in:

 then you put the shoulder pad opposite it.

Now thats all finished, I can start sewing the lining into the jacket!  The bottom facing piece is tacked in & then the lining is hand stitched to it.  Not my favourite job, I have to admit.

Then sewing the lining in at the armholes....

And nearly there... Just button holes to do!!  On recommendation from Julie I took it to DMButtons in Soho to get the to do the buttons on their industrial machines- they literally did it in seconds and they look much nicer than I would ever manage on my machine:

Then just to add the final buttons & give it a final press!

AND after months & months of work, I can proudly say its finished!! I so enjoyed making this and feel very proud that I have made it - I m still a bit in shock that I managed something 'tailored' and I really think it looks & fits great.  I will have a break before doing another jacket (as its such a big undertaking) but I will do another for sure & put all I learned back into practice.  I would highly recommend doing this course at Sew over it.  It was really great- There is no way I would have a jacket finished like this without the course & I learnt so so much from Julie- thank-you!!

Messyessymakes.  x
Join me on Instagram @Messyessymakes